Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Chapters
1
2
3
4
Share this story
A Flashback in Plantation Country
1 2 3 4

A Flashback in Plantation Country

Experiencing Southern antebellum life in Baton Rouge, Louisiana

By Holly Bowne

read more

Experiencing Southern antebellum life in Baton Rouge, Louisiana

By Holly Bowne

Warm Southern sunshine, mouth-watering Cajun cuisine, evening strolls beneath ancient live oaks – it seemed like my husband Chris and I had finally found a destination we could agree on. For our first vacation as a married couple (aside from our honeymoon!), we chose to follow the Mighty Mississippi and experience Plantation Country in Baton Rouge. We loaded up the car with all the necessities – camera equipment for Chris and plenty of antebellum-era literature for me – and began the scenic drive to America’s City by the River.

Sophisticated sitting at The Myrtles Plantation, which is rumored to be haunted.

The chair creaked softly as I rocked, and I took another sip, imagining high-society antebellum life where women spent their days perfecting feminine graces and men ran business affairs.

Step back 220 years and then take a seat.

Step back 220 years and then take a seat.

History and hauntings

On our first day, we drove north from our hotel to “One of America’s Most Haunted Homes,” The Myrtles Plantation. Along the way, Chris did some research and told me about the 220-year-old plantation’s ghost stories. The most famous one involves a young slave named Chloe who was said to have poisoned the plantation owner’s family and was hanged from a tree on the property. Her apparition, among others, has appeared in photographs and has allegedly caused mysterious occurrences such as rearranged furniture, unexplained sounds and even the lingering smell of a burning cigar. Paranormal enthusiasts can take a weekend mystery tour and spend the night in one of the haunted rooms. However, Chris and I opted for a daytime history tour, preferring to meet Chloe in the safety of sunlight.

The Myrtles Plantation sits high on a hilltop, tucked behind the knotted branches of ancient oaks dripping with gray-green Spanish moss. Upon entering the foyer, we were immersed in an atmosphere of grand splendor and old romance. My eye was instantly drawn to the magnificent open-pierced frieze moldings, while a 300-pound Baccarat crystal chandelier glittered over our heads. We roamed the main floor rooms amid gold-leaf French furnishings and Carrera marble mantles, experiencing the history and mystery of a long-ago way of life we can only imagine.

The allure of the home extended to its magnificent grounds. I gazed across the manicured lawns as swaying Spanish moss mingled with the Louisiana perfume of blooming magnolias, crepe myrtle trees and azaleas. Chris snapped dozens of photos, doing his best to capture the ethereal beauty of the place. Much to our relief, no ghostly activity was captured…well, at least not that we’ve noticed!

We discussed how strange high-society antebellum life seemed, where women spent their days perfecting feminine graces and men ran business affairs, occasionally defending their honor on the dueling grounds. I decided it was my turn to take photos of the landscape and asked for the camera.

Chris blinked at me, removed his hat and threw it to the ground. “You’ll have to duel me for it!”

“I declare!” I said with a lift of my chin. “Proper Southern ladies never duel, sir!” I then snatched the camera from his hands, like a true Southern lady – quick, confident and not to be trifled with when angry.

Experience the majesty of architecture at the 64-room Nottoway Plantation.

Nottoway’s White Ballroom combines elegance and simplicity.

Discover the lost art of dining at Nottoway Plantation.

White castle splendor

The next morning we drove south, winding along the Great River Road past fields of sugarcane to Nottoway Plantation, also known as the “White Castle.” Nottoway is strikingly beautiful with its hand-carved white columns, three-story rotunda and grand balconies overlooking the Mississippi River. Sugar magnate John Hampden Randolph built the 64-room, 53,000-square-foot Greek-Italianate mansion in 1859 for his wife and 11 children, who must have played epic games of hide and seek in the home.

We ascended one of the curving staircases to the second-floor entrance. The massive front door swung wide, and a hoop-skirted guide graciously ushered us in. Crossing the threshold, we entered the Old South, with crystal-and-brass chandeliers illuminating an expansive hallway lined with family portraits.

Our guide led us into the spectacular White Ballroom. The semicircular room is divided by elaborate Corinthian columns and hand-cast archways; it’s painted entirely white, including the floor that gleamed from the daylight streaming through its alabaster silk-draped windows. We learned that the ornate white moldings were crafted from horsehair, river mud and Spanish moss. I crossed to one of the long, gilded mirrors, envisioning myself as a Randolph daughter, dressed for a ball and turning this way and that to ensure my ankles weren’t showing, following proper antebellum etiquette.

I crossed to one of the long, gilded mirrors, envisioning myself as a Randolph daughter, dressed for a ball and turning this way and that to ensure my ankles weren’t showing, following proper antebellum etiquette.

The inviting parlor was set for tea, making it was easy to imagine ladies settling onto the cushioned chairs to gossip over dainty teacup rims. In the sunny dining room, the table was set with elegant 19th-century accoutrements, each delicate plate hand-painted with a different design. The intricate details continued into the master bedroom, where our guide asked if we could find where Mrs. Randolph hid her valuables over a century ago. Chris began tapping the walls, looking for secret passages and making everyone laugh before the true spot was revealed – hidden in one of the bedposts.

Throughout the home, the rich patina of hand-carved walnut and mahogany antique furniture glowed. Posh carpeting, velvet window coverings and countless extravagant features served to suspend reality, immersing us in the pre-Civil War lifestyle.

Nottoway’s White Ballroom combines elegance and simplicity.

Discover the lost art of dining at Nottoway Plantation.

Roam the gardens of Nottoway Plantation.

Order a meal worthy of its refined environment at Nottoway’s Mansion Restaurant.

Delicious discoveries

Chris and I treated ourselves to dinner at Nottoway’s Mansion Restaurant that night. We sat at a table on the covered second-floor rotunda balcony, where our exquisite Creole-inspired meal was paired with sweeping views. For dessert, we shared a serving of Miss Sharon’s Homemade White Chocolate Bread Pudding, drizzled with a sweet, gooey blend of crème anglaise and caramel sauce.

We strolled on the levee at sunset, where Chris found the perfect spot to take long-shadowed shots of the stunning mansion. I thought about the grandeur of these plantation homes with their fascinating stories. I told Chris I’d love to make a return trip soon. He quickly agreed, suggesting that next time we could enhance our experience by spending the night in one of Nottoway’s antique-filled bed chambers.

“My my,” I drawled (channeling Allie from The Notebook), “That is quite the forward proposition, Christopher!”

We both laughed at our attempt at proper Southern mannerisms, excited to debut a few colloquialisms to our friends and family back home. Although our first married-couple vacation to Baton Rouge brought us closer to the past, Chris and I were excited about the future trips and photos we’d take, as well as the unforgettable memories we were sure to make. 

Order a meal worthy of its refined environment at Nottoway’s Mansion Restaurant.

Step into the past and experience plantations in Baton Rouge like never before.